Australian Merino Wool
Toorallie sources only the finest Australian Merino wool for its
knitwear garments. Merinos have been specifically breed for over
150 years for attributes that produce the finest and softest wool
of any sheep.
Australian farmers maintain a flock of approximately 70 million.
Over recent years this flock has been reduced from almost 180
million, mainly due to the escalating World wide demand for sheep
meats. However, skilled selective breeding of the Merino portion of
the flock has achieved continual improvement for softness and
quality. This improvement together with growing scarcity ensures
high quality merino wool will continue to demand a premium
price.
The merino sheep has demonstrated over the years, a remarkable
ability to adapt to the Australian environment; from the heat and
dryness of our arid zone to the cold and wet of our mountains. Fine
wool is produced mainly in the northern and southern tableland
areas of New South Wales, the western and southern districts of
Victoria and the midlands of Tasmania.
There are two fine wool types used in Toorallie garments.
Ultrafine
Ultrafine wool is the finest in the world and is the micron
range of 16.1-17.5. This yarn produces a very light fabric that is
silky soft (no prickle) and can be worn directly on the skin.
Ultrafine yarns tend to be used in very light weight knitwear,
underwear and premium suiting fabrics. Being a fine lightweight
fabric makes it trans-seasonal and emphasises the natural benefits
of the fibre: -cool in summer and warm in winter.
Fine-Medium
Fine-medium wool has a micron range of 19.6 - 20.5. The yarn
this wool produces is perfectly suited for use in medium to heavy
gauge knitwear. It has a soft feel, but maintains its strength and
durability for use in an outerwear garment.
In sourcing yarns for Toorallie garments there are several
important factors that we consider.
Soft handle
To ensure the popularity of modern woollen garments customer
comfort is paramount. The primary factor determining this is the
micron measurement of the diameter of the wool fibre. The lower the
micron the finer the fibre and the softer the feel. (A micron is
0.001mm).
Staple length
This refers to the length of the wool when removed from the
sheep. The staple length is particularly important in reducing
"fuzziness" of the fabric surface and potential pilling. The longer
the staple the better the fibre spins creating a yarn that will
contain the fibres within the yarn.
Consistency of supply
Consistently producing a reliable quality garment is difficult
whenever a product consists of natural fibres. Different batches of
wool have varying individual characteristics which need to be
identified early in the supply chain to reduce problems in the end
product.
The genetics of the animal, together with the husbandry skills
of feeding and caring of the animal for its entire lifetime are
determining factors in the quality of the greasy wool and thus the
yarns produced.
Biella Yarn by Sudwolle
To ensure we best meet our yarn requirements we source 100% of
our yarns from Sudwolle. Sudwolle's premium yarn is called Biella.
Sudwolle is committed to supplying superior quality at competitive
prices. Importantly Sudwolle selects raw merino wool according to
three crucial criteria: cleanliness, uniformity of growth and
fineness.
Sudwolle is one of the world's largest wool buyers and
processors and true experts in the techniques required to
consistently produce the best yarns. Having developed a close-knit
network of supply partners they know exactly where our merino wool
originates. The path taken by the yarn can be traced at all times -
from sheep to garment, from raw material supplier to finished
product.
Quality without boarders guaranteed. Biella production takes
place in Germany, Italy, Poland and China - always based on strict
international standards and values. The company applies the same
set of product standards at all of its international locations.
Quality control is second to none, a true industry leader.
Independent labs conduct external audits guaranteeing the quality
of the product. These testing procedures are mandatory for all of
all Sudwolle's facilities regardless of the country or region.
Benefits of wool
- Insulation from heat or cold
- Moisture shield with the capacity to absorb up to a third of
its volume in water without feeling wet
- Outstanding elasticity due to the structure of the fibers
- Easy care, resistance to wrinkling and resistance to
soiling
- Refined Merino yarns are machine-washable and easy care
- Light weight and non-itching
- Resistance to odour's
- Naturally flame-retardant, antistatic
- Natural material: long-lasting, renewable, recyclable
No other material offers all of these qualities in
combination.
What is pilling?
Pilling comes about by short or loose fibres on the outer
surface of the fabric tangling together into small fuzzy balls.
Usually if a garment is susceptible to pilling this will occur
relatively quickly once it is worn several times. Issues with the
fibres of the yarn will usually become apparent quickly. Generally
a garment that has not shown signs of pilling in the early stages
will look good for years to come.
Toorallie garments are designed first and foremost to be the
very best quality possible at a reasonable price.
Pilling is one of the most frustrating elements of dealing with
a natural fibre like wool. Unfortunately even with the best
selection of a natural fibre there will always be some degree of
variation. It is the intention of Toorallie to do everything
possible to minimise this variation and supply a reliable end
fabric for our garments.
Why does pilling occure?
There are many variables that contribute to pilling. Being a
natural fibre, every batch of wool is different and may attract
varying reasons of why it may pill. Common issues that contribute
to pilling are;
Short Fibres (staple length) - Raw wool selection is the first
area of which problems can occur. A long wool fibre is best as it
integrates better into the yarn when spun, ensuring it is well
meshed into the yarn and less likely for fibre ends to protrude. A
long fibred clean yarn will perform well when worn and washed.
Dying process - Dying colours into yarns and fabrics is very
stressful on the fibres and its structural properties. High
temperatures are used to get the dyes to take and sometimes this
can make the fibres brittle and to break into shorter fibres.
Darker colours are often dyed at higher temperatures and can
sometimes be more prone to pilling.
Knit structure - The stich used in creating a fabric is
important in assisting the durability of the yarn. A tight flat
fabric stich has less surface area and results in less pills/snags
and overall protects the yarn fibres. Conversely a loose and boldly
textured fabric is more susceptible as it is more exposed with a
larger surface area. This issue is particularly frustrating for
designers as looser textured fabrics are more fashionable and
demanded by the consumers. This becomes a delicate balance of
fashion over function.
Friction - Wear and tear of a garment can also encourage a
garment to pill. Repetitively worn areas such as under the arms or
on the sides are high frequency pilling areas. Continual irritation
slowly unseats the yarn structure and rubs the fibres out of the
fabric.
Laundering technique - The use of unapproved detergents and
harsh irritating wash cycles can be harmful to the woollen fibre.
Detergents can break down the fibres and make them brittle
resulting is long fibres breaking and becoming short. Short fibres
tend to come loose of the yarn and migrate to the surface of the
garment.
Moths
Contrary to what most people believe adult moths do not eat or
cause damage to clothing or fabrics. It is the larvae which are
solely responsible for this, and which spend their entire time
eating and foraging for food.
In domestic situations larvae usually seek food in carpets,
clothing and other fabrics made of natural fibres. Both adult and
larvae prefer low light conditions and is generally the reason why
moths (or the result of moths) are noticed in storage cupboards or
rooms that are not frequently used.
Most people are unaware that moths or their larvae exist in
their homes. Moth larvae are microscopic and cannot be easily seen.
Moths are attracted to wool garments particularly due to two
reasons. 1) Natural lanoline oils that occur in wool. 2)
Microscopic food sources that may exist on unwashed garments.
- Always store valuable knitwear in a sealed plastic bags (all
Toorallie garments come with their own reusable moth proof
bags)
- Avoid storing woollen garments in dark areas of your cupboard
or drawers where moth larvae may exist.
- Wash garments before storing